Merrick's Switzerland Bouldering Beta

There is not much information on the web in English on bouldering in Switzerland. So I thought I would put a brief guide together of the most popular areas for those who are interested. This is geared for people taking public transportation around and camping, though there is info on hostels. Hopefully you find this useful. Travel on public transportation in Switzerland can be planned on the SBB site.

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Magic Wood

Camping:
Great free legal camping. Porta-potties, Trash, No Water. Bus stop across from the campground at Schmelti. Alternatively there is an affordable climber´s hostel and restaurant named Gasthaus Edelweiss in Ausser Ferrera 2 kilometers up the road.

Approach:
10 to 15 minutes. Walk up the road from the campground. Right before the tunnel there is a trail down to the river. Take one of two cables across, hand over hand. Boulders cover the side of the mountain.

Logistics:
Take a train from anywhere in Switzerland to Thusis. From there take a 10 minute bus ride to Andeer. Get supplies and water in this town. Take the bus to Ausser Fererra. Either ride for 10 minutes and walk back down the road (2 kilometers downhill) to the visible campground or ask to get off at Schmelti, which is directly across from the campground. You can purchase the latest guidebook in English at the Gasthaus Edelweiss () in Ausser Ferrera.

Chironico

Camping:
Camping along the road to the boulders. Keep a low profile, as it may not be legal. There is lots of space, but not water or amenities. Town is a five-minute walk and has free water.

Approach:
From the camping/parking walk away from town for about 5 minutes on a dirt road.

Logistics:
Take a train from anywhere in Switzerland to Bellinzona. Take a 50 minute bus ride from Bellinzona to Lavarge. Take a 10 minute bus ride from Lavarge to Chironico. Walk towards the church. If you take the road that goes in front of the church and away from town for about ten minutes you will reach the boulders. People park and camp along the road. There are a number of other bouldering fields walking distance from town. Ask local climbers.

Cresciano

Camping:
There is no legal camping here. Access is very touchy and the only place to put a tent is in a parking lot. There is water a short walk from the parking lot. There is a climber´s hostel down in the town that shuttles climbers to and from the boulders, has lots of amenities, and is relatively cheap. (Switzerland is expensive to start with.)

Approach:
From the parking walk up the road for five minutes. There will be a marked trail up into the boulders.

Logistics:
Take a train from anywhere in Switzerland to Bellinzona. Take a 30 minute bus ride from Bellinzona to the town of Cresciano. The bouldering is above the town on the west side of the valley. Walk through town and follow the only road that goes up the mountain. It is a thirty minute leisurely walk up the paved road to the parking lot. Alternatively there is a steep hiking trail/steps, which go straight up, that you can walk up in about 10 minutes. I would take the road first to get used the area.